Key facts

• Spring shutters are built up to 192 in wide, 120 in tall and 144 sq ft, and at least 31 in wide overall. Roll-A-Shield data
• Near the coast, motorized or single-wall shutters are recommended and spring units are not. Roll-A-Shield data

Applies to: Surface-mounted spring-loaded (push-pull) rolling shutters with a spring-tensioner barrel and two tensioning rods, including Roll-A-Shield 63 mm single-wall spring shutters; Roll-A-Shield insulated (foam-filled) spring shutters noted where they differ.

A spring-loaded (push-pull) shutter has no motor and no strap: a spring inside the box lets you raise and lower it by hand. Mounting it is one of the simplest shutter installs, because nothing goes through the wall. The one extra job is the spring: the guide says these shutters ship with no tension in the spring, so it can be set to suit the installation, and you add it once the shutter is on the wall. Roll-A-Shield's shipping checks pre-tension spring shutters on the smaller 40 mm axle instead, so check what you have before you start. These steps follow Roll-A-Shield's 2024 install guide for spring-loaded shutters.

Following a published Roll-A-Shield guide does not void the warranty. Mains wiring must be done by a licensed electrician.

What is in the kit?

The assembled box with the curtain on the axle, two guide rails, a bag of standard fasteners, a bag of plastic rail plugs and two spring-tensioning rods. Exactly how the small parts are bagged can vary; check against the packing list. You supply the self-tapping screws for the rails; see what screws to use.

The 2024 guide lists a U-channel "if requested", but Roll-A-Shield builds spring shutters without one; if your kit includes an L-angle and you are unsure where it goes, call (480) 921-0200. The guide's tool list also includes a 3/4 in bit, but a spring shutter needs no hole through the wall.

What size can a spring shutter be?

Up to 192 in wide, 120 in tall and 144 sq ft, and at least 31 in wide overall. Spring shutters are built non-vented, because a spring can lift a closed curtain slightly and open light gaps. Near the coast, a motorized or single-wall shutter is the better choice, and spring units are not recommended. More on how they work: spring-loaded shutters: how they work and size limits.

How do I mount the rails and the box?

1. With the box on the ground, remove the four screws holding the cover, set it aside, and peel the protective film off the front and back.
2. If a doorknob, window hinge or trim sticks out past the wall, fit furring strips first, aligned to the shutter's outside dimensions and kept level and plumb. See what is furring.
3. Set the first rail plumb and level, flared edge up, with the smaller pre-drilled holes against the wall and the larger ones facing out. Stand it on the flat sill and use the outside width of the box ears to set the distance between the rails.
4. Mark the holes, take the rail down, pre-drill, and screw it on snug, not tight.
5. Fit the second rail the same way at the other side, check the rails are the same distance apart at the top and bottom, and screw it on snug. End-retention rails go on the same way; they are 1/2 in wider.
6. Lower the box ears into the rails slowly, keeping the box level. The ears and end caps are cast aluminum and can be damaged if forced.
7. Feed the bottom slat into the tops of the rails and let the curtain unwind slowly until the shutter is closed. With end-retention rails, the small ball on each slat end goes into the slot in the rail.
8. Check the shutter is level, properly positioned and free of pinch points, and raise and lower it a few times.
9. Put a screw in each corner of the box near the metal safety plates, plus a third in the middle if the shutter is over 8 ft wide. Then tighten the rail screws. Do not overtighten either: it distorts the box and warps the rails.

How do I set the spring?

Once the box is screwed down, the spring has to be set so the shutter balances: lifted halfway and let go, it should hold, and when closed it should rest at the bottom so the slide locks or key lock can engage. Call a Roll-A-Shield technician on (480) 921-0200 for this step before you touch the spring or its locking pin. Call the same number if the shutter later sags, feels heavy, flies up or will not stay closed. More on the locks: how rolling shutters lock.

Are insulated (foam-filled) spring shutters different?

Yes, in two ways. Their install guide adds anti-lift brackets, fixed inside the box to the back wall along the top inside edge with three fasteners each, with the shutter fully closed, before the box is screwed down. That guide has no spring-tensioning section, so if your shutter has no tensioner barrel and rods, do not try to adjust the spring; call (480) 921-0200.

How do I finish the installation?

Raise and lower the shutter several times; if it sticks, adjust the tightness of the rail screws. Refit the box cover, push the plastic plugs into the holes on the front of the rails, and caulk round the perimeter.

What next

If the shutter later starts to sag or fly up, see spring shutter is too heavy, flies up, or won't stay down. Self-installers can call a Roll-A-Shield technician during the job on (480) 921-0200. Replacement parts are in the parts store.

Frequently asked questions

Does a spring shutter need a U-channel?

No. Roll-A-Shield builds spring shutters without a U-channel, even though the 2024 install guide still mentions one. If your kit includes an L-angle and you are unsure where it goes, call (480) 921-0200.

Related questions

• How do spring-loaded (push-up) rolling shutters work, and how big can they be?
• Why is my spring-loaded shutter too heavy, flying up or not staying down?
• Can I install a rolling shutter myself?
• How do I install a strap or crank rolling shutter?
• How do rolling shutters lock? Key, thumb-turn and slide locks
• Will rolling shutters rust near the ocean?
• Shop rolling shutter parts