Key facts

• The strap needs one 3/4 in hole drilled straight through the wall on the control side, the side where the strap leaves the back of the box. Roll-A-Shield data
• Mount the strap box or crank box directly below the diamond roller at about waist height; a strap that enters the box at an angle wears out early. Roll-A-Shield data
• The box takes a screw in each corner near the metal safety plates, plus a third screw in the middle when the shutter is over 8 ft wide. Roll-A-Shield data
• A pull strap suits shutters up to 24 sq ft and 120 in wide, a crank strap up to 64 sq ft, and both are limited to a curtain of about 50 lb. Roll-A-Shield data
• Never open a crank box; the strap clamps onto a metal band at the top of the box from outside. Roll-A-Shield data

Applies to: Surface-mounted pull-strap and crank-box rolling shutters, including Roll-A-Shield strap and crank shutters shipped for self-installation.

A strap or crank shutter is the simplest rolling shutter to install yourself: there is no wiring, and the only hole through the wall is the one the strap runs through. These steps follow Roll-A-Shield's install guide for manual shutters, which links to an install video. For whether you should do it yourself at all, start with can I install a rolling shutter myself?.

Following a published Roll-A-Shield guide does not void the warranty. Mains wiring must be done by a licensed electrician. Roll-A-Shield's 15 mm strap manual shutters carry a 1-year warranty.

What comes in the kit, and what do I supply?

The kit has everything except the screws that hold the rails and U-channel to your wall.

• The assembled shutter box, with the slat curtain rolled on the axle and the strap wrapped round the ears
• Two guide rails, and a U-channel if you ordered one
• A pull-strap box, or a crank box and handle
• The diamond roller and anti-lift brackets, a bag of standard fasteners and a bag of plastic rail plugs (exactly how the small parts are bagged can vary; check against the packing list)

You supply self-tapping screws for the rails and U-channel; how many depends on the size of the shutter. The head must be smaller than 3/8 in.

How do I prepare before mounting anything?

Take the cover off and fit any furring or U-channel. With the box on the ground, remove the four screws holding the cover, set the cover aside, and peel the protective film off the front and back of the box. Leave the strap wrapped round the ears until the box is on the wall, or the curtain will unroll. The ears are cast aluminum and can break, so avoid putting stress or weight on them while you work.

If a doorknob, window hinge or trim sticks out past the wall, the shutter needs furring strips first, aligned to the shutter's outside dimensions and kept level and plumb; see what is furring. If you ordered a U-channel, fit it before the rails: mark the center of the U-channel and of the opening, pre-drill at the center, check the overhang is equal on both sides, fasten it, and make it perfectly level; a level U-channel is critical to the rest of the install.

How do I mount the rails and drill the strap hole?

Non-control rail first; the box then tells you where the strap hole goes.

1. Stand the box on its top edge with the ears up. The side where the strap leaves the back of the box is the control side.
2. Measure from the bottom edge of the box to the center of the strap hole (the vertical distance, y), and from the outside edge of the box to the center of the hole (the horizontal distance, x).
3. Set the non-control rail in place, plumb, level and flush with the end of the U-channel. The flared edge goes at the top; the smaller pre-drilled holes go against the wall and the larger ones face out. With no U-channel, stand the rail on the flat sill and use the outside width of the box ears to set the distance between the rails.
4. Mark the rail's holes, take it down, pre-drill, and screw it on snug but not tight.
5. Hold the control-side rail in place and mark x and y from its outside corner. Set the rail aside.
6. Drill a 3/4 in hole straight through the wall at the mark. Start with a smaller bit and step up, watch for nails and debris that could snag the strap, and vacuum the hole out.
7. Check the two rails will be the same distance apart at the top and the bottom, then pre-drill and screw the control rail on snug.

End-retention rails go on the same way; they are just 1/2 in wider.

How do I put the box into the rails?

With a helper, keeping a firm hold on the strap throughout.

1. Untie the strap and unwind it from the ears, keeping a firm grip at the back of the box so the roll cannot unwind.
2. Keeping tension on the strap, lift the box near the rails with your helper.
3. Feed the strap flat and untwisted through the 3/4 in hole while your helper pulls it slowly from inside.
4. Lower the ears into the rails slowly, keeping the box level.
5. Feed the bottom slat into the tops of the rails and let the roll unwind until the shutter is fully closed. With end-retention rails, the small ball on each slat end must slide into the slot inside the rail.
6. Check the shutter is level with no pinch points, then pull the strap from inside to raise and lower it a few times.

How do I fit the anti-lift brackets and fix the box?

The anti-lift brackets stop the shutter being lifted from outside; the size of the shutter decides how many come in the kit. With the shutter fully closed, fix each bracket inside the box to the back wall along the top inside edge, evenly spaced, with three fasteners, screw holes at the top and the C shape facing down. More on these: anti-lift brackets.

Then put a screw in each corner of the box near the metal safety plates, and a third in the middle if the shutter is over 8 ft wide. Tighten the rail and U-channel screws last.

How do I fit the diamond roller and the strap or crank box?

Pull the strap to run the shutter up and down a few times, then thread the strap through the slot at the back of the diamond roller so it falls straight over the roller. Set the roller over the hole and fix it with two fasteners.

Pull-strap box. Mount the box directly below the roller at about waist height, swivel brackets flat to the wall and the metal flap at the top, with two fasteners. Cut the strap so about 1 ft hangs below the box and cut a small slit about 1 in from the end. Open the box front, feed the strap under the flap, wrap it round the spring drum and hook the slit on the strap lug. Pull the strap to turn the drum slightly counter-clockwise, press the locking tab into the opening behind it with a screwdriver, and let the drum coil the slack slowly.

Crank box. Do not open it. Mount it directly below the roller at about waist height with four fasteners. Cut the strap so about 3 ft hangs below the box and cut a 1/2 in slit about 1 in from the end. Straighten the metal band at the top of the box, slide the slit onto it, turn the strap 90 degrees so it lies along the band, and fold the band down over it. Fit the handle in the square opening at the bottom right and turn it slowly clockwise, guiding the band past the entrance rollers.

How do I finish the installation?

Run the shutter up and down several times; if it sticks anywhere, adjust the tightness of the rail or U-channel screws. Refit the cover. With a U-channel, drill a 9/64 in hole about 1/4 in from each outer edge and fix the U-channel to the rails with the square-drive screws in the parts kit. Push the plastic plugs into the holes on the front of the rails and caulk round the perimeter.

What usually goes wrong?

When should I stop and call?

The operator also sets the size: a pull strap handles up to 24 sq ft and 120 in wide, and a crank strap up to 64 sq ft. See how big a manual shutter can be. Roll-A-Shield's install guides tell self-installers to call a technician with any question during the job.

What next

Strap, diamond rollers, crank handles and other wear parts are in the parts store. If you have not ordered yet, start with how to measure for a rolling shutter and request a quote.

Watch it done

Installing a manual strap-operated rolling shutter

The written steps on this page are the reference; the video shows the same job.

Frequently asked questions

Do the screws come with the shutter?

The parts kit includes a bag of standard fasteners, but you supply the self-tapping screws for the guide rails and U-channel, chosen for your wall.

How many people does it take?

Two. One lifts and holds the box near the rails while the other pulls the strap slowly through the wall from inside.

Which way do I crank or pull to raise the shutter?

On a crank box, turn the handle clockwise (the way the arrow on the case points) to raise and counter-clockwise to lower. On a pull-strap box, pull the strap straight down to raise it, and pull it toward your waist to let it down slowly.

Can I install a strap shutter inside the window opening?

The Roll-A-Shield guide covers surface mounts, where the box and rails screw to the wall face. A recessed shutter has to be ordered as recessed; read inside vs. outside mount and call (480) 921-0200 before you start.

Related questions

• Can I install a rolling shutter myself?
• How do I measure for a rolling shutter?
• How do I replace a broken rolling shutter strap?
• What are anti-lift brackets on a manual rolling shutter, and where do they go?
• What screws do I use to mount a rolling shutter on stucco, brick, wood or metal?
• How big can a manual rolling shutter be before it needs a motor?
• Inside mount or outside mount: which is right for a rolling shutter?
• Shop rolling shutter parts