Parts, boxes, rails and mounting · Rolling Shutter Guide
What is a storm bar on a rolling shutter, and does a patio shutter need one?
A storm bar is a removable aluminum post behind the middle of a closed shutter, held by floor and overhead plates, to help stop strong wind pushing the curtain back out of its rails. It is recommended for insulated-slat shutters on patios, carports and other open-backed openings; shutters against a wall normally don't need one.
Key facts
- Roll-A-Shield's measure sheet calls a storm bar highly recommended for patio and carport enclosures, or any shutter that lacks a solid backstop, to help stop the slats being blown out or damaged in strong winds. Roll-A-Shield data
- A 63 mm single-wall shutter never takes a storm bar; its end-retention slats are held in the rails instead, and storm bars are only offered when end retention is not fitted. Roll-A-Shield data
- The storm bar is a 1 x 2 in aluminum bar with a spring-loaded plunger at the top, a fixed pin at the bottom and two receiver plates, one for the floor and one overhead. Roll-A-Shield data
- The receiver plates are set for about 1/2 to 3/4 in of engagement: enough to hold the bar, but still easy to lift out. Roll-A-Shield data
- There is no width rule and the factory never adds one automatically; storm bars are chosen per shutter when it is ordered, with the bar cut to the height of the guide rails. Roll-A-Shield data
Applies to: Rolling shutters with insulated (foam-filled) slats on patios, porches, carports and other enclosures with open space behind the curtain, including Roll-A-Shield 38 mm and 55 mm insulated shutters. Not used on 63 mm single-wall shutters with end retention.
A rolling shutter mounted over a window or door has the wall, the glass or the door right behind it. A shutter that encloses a patio, porch or carport has nothing behind it but air, and that is the case a storm bar is for. This page explains what the bar is, which shutters need one, and how it is fitted and removed.
What is a storm bar?
A storm bar is a removable post that stands upright behind the middle of the closed curtain. It is a 1 x 2 in aluminum bar with a spring-loaded plunger in the top end and a fixed pin in the bottom end; the two ends drop into receiver plates, one in the floor and one in the beam or wall above.
It is set close to the back of the curtain, so if the shutter flexes back, the bar stops it. The measure sheet's description of its job: to help prevent the slats from being blown out or damaged during strong winds.
Does my patio shutter need a storm bar?
It depends on what is behind the curtain, not on its width. Roll-A-Shield has no numeric rule; the call is made from how the shutter is installed and how exposed it is to wind.
| Where the shutter is | Storm bar? |
|---|---|
| Against a wall, window or door (a solid backstop) | Normally not needed |
| Patio, porch or carport enclosure, with open space behind the curtain | Recommended, especially on 38 mm and 55 mm insulated slats |
| A windy or exposed site (a breezy lakeside, a ridgeline) | Consider one |
| 63 mm single-wall shutter with end retention | Never: the slats are held in the rails instead |
The reason is the gap. With open air behind an insulated curtain, wind can push the slats back and out of the guide rails; against a door or window, insulated slats are fine.
What about single-wall shutters?
A 63 mm single-wall shutter runs on end-retention slats that are held inside the guide rails, so it never takes a storm bar. Roll-A-Shield's order system only offers storm bars when end retention is not fitted. For a very exposed opening, Roll-A-Shield often suggests the single-wall slat with end retention instead of an insulated shutter with a storm bar. See What is end retention, and when do you need it?.
On a wide 38 mm insulated shutter, the mini-wide guide rail also helps: its wider slat channel leaves the slat more room to stay in the rail under wind or pressure.
How many storm bars, and how are they ordered?
There is no set number per width; storm bars are a deliberate choice for each shutter, made when it is ordered, and the factory never adds one automatically. Each one ships as a kit with its bar cut to the height of the guide rails and finished in the slat color where that color is stocked, otherwise white. The order sheet lists the storm bar as a special-order item, with a space to write the unit numbers that need one; fill it in, or ask the rep if you are not sure.
How is a storm bar installed?
The bar is fitted behind the closed shutter, centered and plumb, with a receiver plate notched into the floor and another into the beam or wall above. You need a pencil, a level, a small grinder for concrete or a chisel for softer surfaces, and fasteners for the two plates.
- Check the bar: the spring-loaded plunger end goes at the top and the fixed pin at the bottom, each about halfway into the bar and riveted.
- Close the shutter, get behind it and find the center. Hold the bar plumb and close to the back of the curtain.
- Mark around the bottom pin on the floor and around the top plunger on the beam or wall above.
- Trace the opening of each receiver plate around those marks.
- Notch the surface under each plate so the ends can seat with about 1/2 to 3/4 in of engagement: enough to hold, but still easy to get the bar out.
- Fix the two plates over the notches. Roll-A-Shield's storm-bar video does not show the plate fasteners; choose them for the surface (see What screws to use on stucco, brick, wood and metal).
- Push the top of the bar up to compress the plunger, swing the bottom in over the floor plate, and let go. The spring holds the bar in place.
To remove it, push up into the top plate, pull the bottom out, and lower the bar.
Is a storm bar a wind rating?
No. A storm bar is a practical brace for an open-backed curtain; Roll-A-Shield publishes no wind rating for it. For what the slats themselves are tested to, see How much wind can a rolling shutter take?. If a patio shutter has already come out of its rails, see Shutter came out of its guide rail.
Watch it done
Storm Bar Basics: what it is and how installation works
The written steps on this page are the reference; the video shows the same job.
Frequently asked questions
How do I take a storm bar out?
Push the bar up into the top plate to compress the spring-loaded plunger, then pull the bottom out and lower the bar. To put it back, do the reverse: push up, swing the bottom in, and release.
How many storm bars does a wide patio shutter need?
Roll-A-Shield has no fixed width rule. The number is chosen per shutter when it is ordered, from how exposed the opening is and what is behind it. Call (480) 921-0200 with the sizes and a photo of the opening.
Does a single-wall shutter need a storm bar?
No. Single-wall shutters use end-retention slats that are held inside the guide rails, so they never take a storm bar.
What is the storm bar made of?
A 1 x 2 in aluminum bar cut to the height of the guide rails, finished in the slat color where that color is stocked, otherwise white, with a spring plunger at the top and a fixed pin at the bottom.
Parts and next step
Need a part or a hand?
Enclosing a patio or carport? Tell us the opening sizes and what is behind each shutter, and we will say where a storm bar, or a single-wall slat, makes sense. Call (480) 921-0200; the factory answers technical questions for any rolling shutter, not only ours.